OT: 2021 Weather thread

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Drivesaitl

Finding Hyman
Oct 8, 2017
46,118
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Canuck hunting
So this legit has me curious…. Do I moisturize or will that become double the grease in this heat? If I do moisturize which one? I don’t want to cause a rash………

perhaps I just sit in the splits position in front of the air condition?

If this is legit asking don't ever do it. To avoid rashes, infections, etc you want to keep the netherworld down there dry and clean as possible. Not greased up with some gunk. Pore blockage, ingrown follicles, blisters, etc can become prolific in the areas. As a longterm cyclist I sure know about all of it.

That said I sweat easy. I basically have to towel myself down after a ride (I cant presently and awaiting operation)

Only my scalp and forehead get dry ever. Some dandruff. But also sun exposure there. Hands only get dry in winter for me so my skin conditions might be different.

ps I tried anti chafing creams and ointments and its the absolute worst garbage. All it does is clog any pores that are still functioning. Absolutely avoid it. Maybe this works for some people. For me it was the likely cause of worse problems and countless cyclists report the same. Maybe it works for runners. But with cyclists the saddle grinds that stuff right into your pores.
 

Bryanbryoil

Pray For Ukraine
Sep 13, 2004
86,196
34,653
If this is legit asking don't ever do it. To avoid rashes, infections, etc you want to keep the netherworld down there dry and clean as possible. Not greased up with some gunk. Pore blockage, ingrown follicles, blisters, etc can become prolific in the areas. As a longterm cyclist I sure know about all of it.

That said I sweat easy. I basically have to towel myself down after a ride (I cant presently and awaiting operation)

Only my scalp and forehead get dry ever. Some dandruff. But also sun exposure there. Hands only get dry in winter for me so my skin conditions might be different.

ps I tried anti chafing creams and ointments and its the absolute worst garbage. All it does is clog any pores that are still functioning. Absolutely avoid it. Maybe this works for some people. For me it was the likely cause of worse problems and countless cyclists report the same. Maybe it works for runners. But with cyclists the saddle grinds that stuff right into your pores.

Any news on when you might finally be able to get your operation done? IIRC you are already fully vaccinated so you now have a layer of protection that you didn't 6+ months ago.
 

Drivesaitl

Finding Hyman
Oct 8, 2017
46,118
56,617
Canuck hunting
Any news on when you might finally be able to get your operation done? IIRC you are already fully vaccinated so you now have a layer of protection that you didn't 6+ months ago.

Not long now, unless they postpone again. Just in time, I've had recent complications. Can't happen soon enough. Yeah we should be perfectly Covid-safe anyway. I'm fearful they might find more wrong than is presently known from Ultrasound and imaging. It was a longstanding issue I pushed off like most cycling junkies.

For cyclists you keep dispelling, ignoring, minimizing the issues and symptoms because of how much you love cycling. Like any addiction lots that could be said about that. 20yrs ago I even made the shift from touring bikes to mountain bikes which offered more comfort, better suspension. But now I can't even ride those.

So partly my own fault. For sure though the junk sold as prevention like anti chafing creams is inappropriate for cyclists and should be advisory to that effect. In my case no doubt it worsened blockages and infection.

Heh I still stationary bike on my exercise bike but have to stand on the pedals full workout, so almost like an elliptical workout.
 

tardigrade81

Registered User
Jun 12, 2019
16,501
21,062
Saskatchewan
If this is legit asking don't ever do it. To avoid rashes, infections, etc you want to keep the netherworld down there dry and clean as possible. Not greased up with some gunk. Pore blockage, ingrown follicles, blisters, etc can become prolific in the areas. As a longterm cyclist I sure know about all of it.

That said I sweat easy. I basically have to towel myself down after a ride (I cant presently and awaiting operation)

Only my scalp and forehead get dry ever. Some dandruff. But also sun exposure there. Hands only get dry in winter for me so my skin conditions might be different.

ps I tried anti chafing creams and ointments and its the absolute worst garbage. All it does is clog any pores that are still functioning. Absolutely avoid it. Maybe this works for some people. For me it was the likely cause of worse problems and countless cyclists report the same. Maybe it works for runners. But with cyclists the saddle grinds that stuff right into your pores.
Wow, you’re like a fountain of knowledge. I need your number so I can ask you things but I would likely call you every ten minutes lol
 

CravenMH

Registered User
Aug 6, 2020
498
589
@Drivesaitl

Good Sir, we chatted about Bell peppers earlier this season, I harvested 2 of them when they got about 3in diameter. I have not seen any blooms since but the plant itself is about a foot and a half tall with wide leaves. Should a guy prune these plants to put some stress on them to flower? I also have a habanero plant i haven't even got 1 pepper yet but the plant is getting tall and it's healthy.
 

Drivesaitl

Finding Hyman
Oct 8, 2017
46,118
56,617
Canuck hunting
@Drivesaitl

Good Sir, we chatted about Bell peppers earlier this season, I harvested 2 of them when they got about 3in diameter. I have not seen any blooms since but the plant itself is about a foot and a half tall with wide leaves. Should a guy prune these plants to put some stress on them to flower? I also have a habanero plant i haven't even got 1 pepper yet but the plant is getting tall and it's healthy.

Did you fertilize at all?

Are the initial blooms and fruit from when you bought the plants?

Greenhouses will typically over fertilize to get plants to bloom early to make them attractive for sale. Consider it a weird pre bloom kind of thing as sometimes after the plants go dormant a bit before putting out more blooms. Seen this with tomatoes to.

Another thing, are you Peppers getting enough sun? They like a lot of sun and preferably in a hot location.

Also possible in this weather that you have not been watering enough. Peppers like copious watering and then some time to dry a bit. At least one huge watering a day. Your Peppers may not be getting enough water to put out fruit.

I'm not a believer in pruning peppers. Sounds odd. Last thing is I use small pots for peppers, containers only, around 8inch in diameter. 10 inch deep. More than enough. Give them too much room and all they do is grow. Try folgers coffee cans (plastic) with a few holes drilled in bottom. Works great. I have so many peppers I can't use them all. Around 6-8 per plant and those tiny plants are just pumping out peppers.

if we were in Mexico I would grow Peppers in the ground where a plant could live 8-10mths and just completely mature and get huge. But in Canada with limited growing season you have to control all the variables. These Peppers in my small pots, they realize all they can do is fruit and try to put out seed. They don't waste resource on enormous growth. Plants sense what kind of space and growing condition they have. My plants are small, with lots of fruit, its like magic!
 
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CravenMH

Registered User
Aug 6, 2020
498
589
Did you fertilize at all?

Are the initial blooms and fruit from when you bought the plants?

Greenhouses will typically over fertilize to get plants to bloom early to make them attractive for sale. Consider it a weird pre bloom kind of thing as sometimes after the plants go dormant a bit before putting out more blooms. Seen this with tomatoes to.

Another thing, are you Peppers getting enough sun? They like a lot of sun and preferably in a hot location.

Also possible in this weather that you have not been watering enough. Peppers like copious watering and then some time to dry a bit. At least one huge watering a day. Your Peppers may not be getting enough water to put out fruit.

I'm not a believer in pruning peppers. Sounds odd. Last thing is I use small pots for peppers, containers only, around 8inch in diameter. 10 inch deep. More than enough. Give them too much room and all they do is grow. Try folgers coffee cans (plastic) with a few holes drilled in bottom. Works great. I have so many peppers I can't use them all. Around 6-8 per plant and those tiny plants are just pumping out peppers.

if we were in Mexico I would grow Peppers in the ground where a plant could live 8-10mths and just completely mature and get huge. But in Canada with limited growing season you have to control all the variables. These Peppers in my small pots, they realize all they can do is fruit and try to put out seed. They don't waste resource on enormous growth. Plants sense what kind of space and growing condition they have. My plants are small, with lots of fruit, its like magic!
Initially i planted them in the garden on the north west side. They weren't doing well so i transplanted them again to pots and placed them on the south side of the house in full sun. They did much better after that. I used a large pot and put both pepper plants together in there. It's about 2 ft wide and 1 ft deep. Maybe as your say this is too much area. The plants are very healthy, Bell pepper plant in particular with very broad leaves. I water them every other day, with the heat dome it was every day. The tomatoes beside them are doing very well and ripening. I give them both the same attention. I have not fertilized but i have very good soil here on the acreage. Yes i have only produced peppers on the flowers from when i purchased. No new flowers on the bell pepper. The habanero flowered once but didn't take
 
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Dorian2

Define that balance
Jul 17, 2009
12,250
2,232
Edmonton
@CravenMH

Flowering and not producing peppers could be a couple of things. While peppers love a lot of sun, too much heat, much like we've had recently, can have a negative effect on the flowering and fruit stage of these plants. I found that moving the Peppers into a shaded area at peak heat (2PM-4PM) helped quite a bit in my own situation. You can also try a foliar spray with Epson salts (2 Tbsp Epson/4L of water or a 1.5 tsp/L). If you don't wish to spray, you can try a top dress with about a Tbsp/plant around the top of the soil and water in heavily. Epson provides Magnesium which is a key component to flowering in plants like Tomato, Peppers, and Cannabis ;). I think our city water already has enough Calcium to facilitate what the Magnesium does for the plant.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/epsom-salt-gardening.htm

Having said that, you might want to check out your peppers lately as the cooler temps can also affect the flowering cycle a bit. I'm also one who does trim Peppers. Everyone has their own style, but I've found that the Habby I bought needed trimming 2x already....I'm treating them like my tomato plants, which I keep at 3 or 4 stalks/plant). Keep in mind we're still a ways off from harvest so there's lots of time. Just another viewpoint as @Drivesaitl gave a lot of good info as well. Lots of ways to skin this cat. Choose a method you're most comfortable with.
 
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Drivesaitl

Finding Hyman
Oct 8, 2017
46,118
56,617
Canuck hunting
Initially i planted them in the garden on the north west side. They weren't doing well so i transplanted them again to pots and placed them on the south side of the house in full sun. They did much better after that. I used a large pot and put both pepper plants together in there. It's about 2 ft wide and 1 ft deep. Maybe as your say this is too much area. The plants are very healthy, Bell pepper plant in particular with very broad leaves. I water them every other day, with the heat dome it was every day. The tomatoes beside them are doing very well and ripening. I give them both the same attention. I have not fertilized but i have very good soil here on the acreage. Yes i have only produced peppers on the flowers from when i purchased. No new flowers on the bell pepper. The habanero flowered once but didn't take

My take off the info you provide is that the Peppers may have been stunted by being transplanted twice. First into the ground, then into other pot. I try to only transplant one from bedding plant containers directly into where I want them.

Next year try banana peppers if you can get your hands on any bedding plants. I had trouble finding banana peppers here so went with Hungarian Wax wing which are a bit too spicy for my liking. But prolific.

I would fertilize fruiting plants. I mean regardless of your soil quality you get more fruit from tomatoes or peppers if you fertilize at the right time. In anycase hold out, we still have a couple months left for those Peppers to be doing something.

Just so you don't feel bad my tomatoes haven't been doing what I want the last few years. I have them in ground (gonna think about changing that next year) and in the same spot I usually have them. My problem with tomatoes is in this climate I like to buy "Determinate" tomato plants which are designed for this climate and self limit their size. But instead all the doofus nurseries are selling indeterminate and so that they grow like wild weeds but take forever to ripen the fruit. I've had this problem with tomatoes now for years and I suck at pruning. Tried it a few times and then I got hardly any tomatoes. I used to do great with tomatoes so its weird. By no means are any of mine ripening yet. Still white green.
 

Drivesaitl

Finding Hyman
Oct 8, 2017
46,118
56,617
Canuck hunting
@CravenMH

Flowering and not producing peppers could be a couple of things. While peppers love a lot of sun, too much heat, much like we've had recently, can have a negative effect on the flowering and fruit stage of these plants. I found that moving the Peppers into a shaded area at peak heat (2PM-4PM) helped quite a bit in my own situation. You can also try a foliar spray with Epson salts (2 Tbsp Epson/4L of water or a 1.5 tsp/L). If you don't wish to spray, you can try a top dress with about a Tbsp/plant around the top of the soil and water in heavily. Epson provides Magnesium which is a key component to flowering in plants like Tomato, Peppers, and Cannabis ;). I think our city water already has enough Calcium to facilitate what the Magnesium does for the plant.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/epsom-salt-gardening.htm

Having said that, you might want to check out your peppers lately as the cooler temps can also affect the flowering cycle a bit. I'm also one who does trim Peppers. Everyone has their own style, but I've found that the Habby I bought needed trimming 2x already....I'm treating them like my tomato plants, which I keep at 3 or 4 stalks/plant). Keep in mind we're still a ways off from harvest so there's lots of time. Just another viewpoint as @Drivesaitl gave a lot of good info as well. Lots of ways to skin this cat. Choose a method you're most comfortable with.

Good info. Haven't tried any magnesium specifically but I think its in my fertilizer. Anyway for my Peppers its the size of the pot that is self limiting the plants from trying to grow too big. Works like a charm. Great for me as I hate pruning. Used to always buy the "determinate" tomatoes. Now I only see indeterminate everywhere. Have to look around more I guess. My own experience with pruning is when I do it I get far less production from the plants. Seems to not work out for me. This is an interesting article;

You Don't Have to Prune Tomato Plants (thespruce.com)

"The reason for not pruning is best explained by Dr. Carolyn Male, a professor of microbiology and noted gardener, in her book, "100 Heirloom Tomatoes." "I'm firmly against pruning," she wrote. "Plants need to photosynthesize to produce energy for root, leaf, and fruit growth. Therefore, by allowing all of the plant's foliage to thrive, the plant is better able to photosynthesize."


I never get it right with pruning. Only pruning I do is around ground level to reduce chances of any rot. As for Pepper plants getting too hot, haven't had that problem but I do shoot plants with a cold mist spray around 1-2pm each day. Just hit them with it. Works good for peas as well as they don't like the summer heat.
 
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Dorian2

Define that balance
Jul 17, 2009
12,250
2,232
Edmonton
Good info. Haven't tried any magnesium specifically but I think its in my fertilizer. Anyway for my Peppers its the size of the pot that is self limiting the plants from trying to grow too big. Works like a charm. Great for me as I hate pruning. Used to always buy the "determinate" tomatoes. Now I only see indeterminate everywhere. Have to look around more I guess. My own experience with pruning is when I do it I get far less production from the plants. Seems to not work out for me. This is an interesting article;

You Don't Have to Prune Tomato Plants (thespruce.com)

"The reason for not pruning is best explained by Dr. Carolyn Male, a professor of microbiology and noted gardener, in her book, "100 Heirloom Tomatoes." "I'm firmly against pruning," she wrote. "Plants need to photosynthesize to produce energy for root, leaf, and fruit growth. Therefore, by allowing all of the plant's foliage to thrive, the plant is better able to photosynthesize."


I never get it right with pruning. Only pruning I do is around ground level to reduce chances of any rot. As for Pepper plants getting too hot, haven't had that problem but I do shoot plants with a cold mist spray around 1-2pm each day. Just hit them with it. Works good for peas as well as they don't like the summer heat.

I'm growing heirloom (Beefsteak) from seeds I got from some tomato's my Father in Law dropped off for me last year. I totally accept and agree with the non pruning method but for me it's more to do with space and growing season limits. I don't have the space for 3 or 4 beefsteaks to fully grow out (2' x 5' and 2' x 7' areas). I've tried to in the past and it just gets ugly. Here's a pic of 3 beefsteaks at this point that have been trimmed to 3 or 4 stalks each. Suckers are 5'8" at this point. Roma's on the other side are the same lol. Napa Grape with those ones is almost at 7' FFS.

Note the curling from the heat.

SaiSBZk.jpg
 
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