For one reason and another, 2017 was the first year since I was a small child that I didn't attend a single game of football live. Recently, the urge overtook me, and I tried to work out which London team I might find it least offensive to visit. Then I saw harmless old Fulham were on a tear, and wondered whether they had any interesting games pending. Then I saw they were playing Wolves at Craven Cottage, and I'd heard it suggested that Wolves were playing really good football- having been filled to the gills with heaps of dubiously-sourced money, in the best traditions of modern English football.
Mentioning traditions, when I was a child, it seemed like annually the BBC trooped down to Fulham to report that some evil capitalist was trying to buy Craven Cottage, so they could tear down the stadium and build houses on that juicy slice of real estate. The resistance would be lead by singer Ralph McTell, whose haunting lament about homelessness The Streets of London had apparently been mandated as part of every hapless youth's music lesson curriculum.
Craven Cottage is beautifully situated by the Thames, so I'm told. I hadn't time to find out. The District line was part-closed, so rather than alight at Putney Bridge and head west, I walked down shabby Hammersmith streets decorated with newsagents, offies, bookies and takeaways before finally reaching a leafy-suburbsish area. A right turn, and the street I was passing down boasted some floodlights beyond its far end.
I'd been told that Craven Cottage was a nice ground. Entering, I was stunned to discover that despite those dozen uninterrupted years of Premier League football, the Hammersmith End looked like an old temporary stand. Beneath were pretty bog-standard facilities for food and drink, to say nothing of narrow, basic toilets. Bradford looked better fitted to the higher echelons- and City had been a fourth-tier club back when I'd visited them.
I assumed my seat, high up behind one goal, would give me an excellent perspective (and save me shelling out £35 for a main stand ticket). On entering the seating area I nearly cried out loud, 'But where's the rest of it?' Hard to believe capacity is 25,000 or so. In comparison to SJP, Upton Park had seemed a touch on the small side. Craven Cottage seemed positively dinky.
When I'd bought a ticket for the game, I'd been surprised how many unsold seats remained. Now gaps abounded. Fortunately, these began to fill, but the place neither heaved nor throbbed with excitement as kickoff approached. The seats had attached to them contraptions that resembled fans, and with the start not far off the PA system launched into Seven Nation Army, at which the home supporters took up the fan things, which they used to thwack against the palm of their other hand in time to the music.
I reflected that the locals were probably too posh to risk damaging their delicate hands by clapping, but even so, the spectacle was skin-crawlingly plastic. The heart filled with dread.
But as the game kicked off, a miracle occurred. From behind me, singing broke out, and the noise grew. What proportion of the crowd participated, and how loud it would have sounded from further away I cannot say. Heard from close by, and in stark contrast to what had gone before, it gave one the sense of being at a proper football game. And the noise persisted throughout.
In between buying my ticket and the day itself, each team had undergone a significant change. Neves- Wolves' star midfielder- had earned himself a suspension. Meanwhile, Fulham had taken on loan The Thirteen Million Pound Lard Baby. Or Aleksandar Mitrovic, as he is more widely known. Talk about farce dogging your every step.
Neves' absence was felt from the start, and Nuno had compounded it by leaving Jota, his top scorer, on the bench. He'd spotted that Ryan Fredericks tended to bomb forwards from right back to give Fulham's 4-2-3-1 formation width down that side, and tried to exploit the resultant gap through counters. But without Neves, Wolves lacked the craft to make real incisions, and Costa's pace worried without creating end product.
Fulham benefitted from the discipline of their holding midfielder Kevin McDonald, who frequently operated so close to his back four as almost to be an additional centre back. When Fredericks was caught forward, McDonald indeed dropped into defence so that Kalas could cover out right. Tim Ream was reading the game well, and intervening usefully when his team looked on the brink of being opened up. Fredericks suffered from his winger, Ayite's defensive unreliability, but he himself was never slow to sprint back towards goal. All to the good, given their keeper's handling was more than once shaky. The visitors played 4-2-3-1 too, and apart from a few frantic minutes early on that resulted in a block by a Wolves defender and a save from John Ruddy I felt the teams cancelled each other out.
For the home team, Mitrovic was at times isolated. Occasionally he wandered unwisely in search of the ball, denying his team a focal point. His hold-up play was the usual mixture of deft touches and lumpenness. Johansen was busy, decent in his touch, lively in his thinking, but not always so hot in execution. Tom Cairney impressed with his two-footed distribution and positional discipline- keeping his team ticking over by the golden virtue of not trying to do too much for no reason.
Then there was Ryan Sessegnon, of whom I'd heard so much. His speed stands out, and his control is mightily impressive. On the evidence of this game his movement off the ball and passing is that of a second-tier English winger, alas. Nevertheless, when Wolves were caught trying to play offside as the ball returned towards their goal Mitrovic found himself played into the box alone. Ruddy saved the shot, but Sessegnon darted in to dispatch the rebound.
That happened seven minutes short of half time, yet the interval didn't engender a Wolves revival. Twenty minutes from the end, just to annoy me Mitrovic turned his marker with embarrassing ease in the inside left channel. His control served him perfectly to open up a shooting angle. From behind that goal it was evident even before Mitrovic struck the ball that despite being twenty yards or so out he was in a perfect position to place a shot low into the corner to the keeper's right. He realised the opportunity, and celebrated by doing the silly gun celebration he's so fond of. The fans lapped it up, which encouraged him to show off his bicep muscles as he bounded back to the centre-circle. Nothing changes- the same pea-brained grandstanding interspersed with transient suggestions of an actual footballer.
After that, Wolves lost heart. Yet with a few minutes left they enjoyed an unlikely burst of life that yielded a ghastly miss by Jota, who when faced with an empty net lamped the ball into the crowd. Another chance followed, but then the final whistle. On the tube, the mood of their fans was gloomy. They've dropped twelve points in their last eight games. Yet if they accrue 50% of the points from their final dozen matches, they'll finish the campaign with 91 points, which should be enough to earn automatic promotion.
As for Fulham, they proved last season they were capable at this level of beating anyone. They impressed more than a few Newcastle fans as the best pure footballing opposition in the 2016/17 edition of the second tier, and as they roared into the playoffs with eleven wins from their final seventeen games, I assumed they'd prove the team to beat. That events turned out differently leaves them in a tight spot. Unless memory misleads, this is the Cottagers' final year of parachute payments. Miss promotion this year, and Ralph McTell may again be propelled to the fore.