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Where is it on Sale?I've been looking to get this. It's on sale at the moment, so I could actually afford it. How sturdy is the blade? Generally, the stick feels super soft (too soft?).
Where is it on Sale?I've been looking to get this. It's on sale at the moment, so I could actually afford it. How sturdy is the blade? Generally, the stick feels super soft (too soft?).
A note on the X:60, I've been using it heavily for 8 months now and it's still in great shape. Kick is still good, the blade is perfect, and there's only minor chipping on the shaft. I'm a small guy so I don't put a ton of pressure on it, but so far it has held up better than the One95.
I have no idea what any of you are talking about because I'm kind of old...
Branches sticks were awesome. Those things never broke and they were like $14. They stopped making hockey sticks and just make canoe paddles and oars and stuff now.
This may be a stupid question, but... Can you get Sherwood 5030 woodies in a flex lower than 87??? I've only seen 87s and to cut those babies down for my 5'4 height would make the flex go through the roof...
Another interesting thing is that there's a little stopper in the bottom of the shaft, so I had to cut 1/2" off the TENON of one of my Harrow blades. But otherwise it's a perfect fit, no tape needed.
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).Grab an INT 5030 - it's 70 flex.This may be a stupid question, but... Can you get Sherwood 5030 woodies in a flex lower than 87??? I've only seen 87s and to cut those babies down for my 5'4 height would make the flex go through the roof...
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).
I have two 8k shafts, the little stopper is just a very thin wall of carbonite that can easily be removed with a small chisel. Might be better than cutting the tenon.
Yeah, if your heel is getting chewed up fast:I don't know a whole lot about the feel of sticks as I played inline when I was little but now that I just got into ice as an adult the intermediate 5030 is the only stick I've used. It doesn't feel very solid against the puck - I might have to investigate intermediate composites at some point. The heel on my 5030 is getting chewed up on the ice and it's only seen a couple games action. The lie probably isn't right for me.
I wonder why they put it there? I just sawed the tenon, took ten seconds and I've done it before to save a little weight (and the Harrow tenons are pretty long).
Thanks for the advice. The stick is an inch or two too long (above the chin) but I wanted to see how much that affected me so I could have that extra reach. I do tape the heel but if I ever get around to buying a saw I'll cut it down to the appropriate length.Yeah, if your heel is getting chewed up fast:
a) You could try a different lie
b) You could try a shorter stick (where does the stick come up to on skates?)
c) Don't do one of those NHL style, tape only the toe tape jobs, instead tape the whole blade, heel to toe. To get the most life out of your blades (especially wood blades), any part of the blade that comes into contact with the ice should have tape on it if. Though really this is good to do before any wear starts, not after, because splintery wood with tape over it wears quickly and just feels weird on the ice
But yeah, wear should happen roughly in the middle of the blade - a bit towards the heel is fine, but if you have serious wear right by the heel you need a shorter stick or a different lie.
Epic first post .we need a new cooler for the dressing room,does anyone know where to get a briefcase style cooler,I have seen one that looked like a first aid kit and could hold 24 cold beverages,that would be ideal