OT: Whatcha' DIYin'?

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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I know y’all have been waiting with bated breath to find out how bad I fubar’d my bathroom project. Well, your wait is over:

View attachment 579881

View attachment 579882
I assume you did the tile yourself? How much experience did you previously have. I've done some large tiles and some subway tiles, but never that Hex shaped like you have on the floor. I found some at a discount and have to put it up as a backsplash at the farm so was wondering how difficult it was to work with and were there any tricks of the trade you learned?

Bathroom looks great.
 
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MinJaBen

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I assume you did the tile yourself? How much experience did you previously have. I've done some large tiles and some subway tiles, but never that Hex shaped like you have on the floor. I found some at a discount and have to put it up as a backsplash at the farm so was wondering how difficult it was to work with and were there any tricks of the trade you learned?

Bathroom looks great.
Thanks.

Full disclosure, I decided to hire a guy to do the tile in the alcove. I did all the framing, furring, cement board and waterproofing for the floors and alcove. Then I did the floor mosaics myself. First time I had done any tile. It came out fine, but I see all the little mistakes I made. Given that the glass tile in the alcove was the most expensive individual outlay for this project, I decided to hire a guy to do that part. The floor tile is marble and cost about $800 while the glass tile was $2500.

As far as installing the floor, I learned lots of things, but none are probably new to anyone but me. The biggest headache was the spacing of the tile sheets (they were 12” x 12”) so that the spacing between sheets matched the tile spacing within the sheets. I got my tile mosaics from HomeDepot and the quality control of the sheets wasn’t the best. Some individual tiles in the sheets at the edges had more gap than others which made the laying of the sheets side by side sometimes tricky. I ended up getting a lot of spacers used for subway tile to help hold the gaps consistently. The other thing that helped with the floors was I precut and dry laid everything before I mortared it in.
 

ndp

Hurricanes Pessimist
Oct 29, 2015
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I stopped doing 4x8 plywood cuts on the table saw as it's too cumbersome. I use a track saw now to cut it down to smaller sizes first and that works great.
A decent track saw is probably next on my list of wood shop toys, along with helix cutter head for our 22” planer, and expanding our solar kiln.

What I really want is a CNC router table. I like to build speakers, and have done quite a few speaker cabinets for friends who are into the whole audiophile thing as well. A CNC table would make things so much easier but the amount of floor space a 4x8 table requires makes it tough for us to squeeze one in.

There’s an open source project for a vertical CNC router that looks really interesting and can be put together relatively in expensively but I haven’t had the time to really dive into it. Might be a good winter project, as most of our woodworking these days is.
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
48,405
98,108
A decent track saw is probably next on my list of wood shop toys, along with helix cutter head for our 22” planer, and expanding our solar kiln.

What I really want is a CNC router table. I like to build speakers, and have done quite a few speaker cabinets for friends who are into the whole audiophile thing as well. A CNC table would make things so much easier but the amount of floor space a 4x8 table requires makes it tough for us to squeeze one in.
Yeah, my wife bought me a CNC router for Christmas last year and I've been having fun with it, but the floorspace is indeed an issue as the rolling table it is on is 52" x 48".
 
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LostInaLostWorld

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A decent track saw is probably next on my list of wood shop toys, along with helix cutter head for our 22” planer, and expanding our solar kiln.

What I really want is a CNC router table. I like to build speakers, and have done quite a few speaker cabinets for friends who are into the whole audiophile thing as well. A CNC table would make things so much easier but the amount of floor space a 4x8 table requires makes it tough for us to squeeze one in.

There’s an open source project for a vertical CNC router that looks really interesting and can be put together relatively in expensively but I haven’t had the time to really dive into it. Might be a good winter project, as most of our woodworking these days is.
Shopbot in Durham makes smaller CNC machines.

 
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SvechneJerk

Christ is King
Jul 15, 2018
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So, back in February, I was using a table saw to rip down a long, narrow piece of wood for a piece of trim I needed to finish off something on a fireplace mantle I was updating. Well, I really shouldn't have been trying to use this particular piece due to the bow it had in it. Against my better judgment, I proceeded, thinking that as long as I kept constant pressure against the fence, I'd be fine.

As I was getting close to the end of my cut, I reached over with my other hand to grab the pushing tool. In doing so, I let off just enough pressure from the wood that it got bound up on the blade & shot back at me, tearing up the end of one of my fingers. Not pretty.

The orthopedic surgeon did a fantastic job. It almost looks completely normal now.
And here is the fireplace & feature wall I was working on, at the time.

IMG_7116.jpg
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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Thanks.

As far as installing the floor, I learned lots of things, but none are probably new to anyone but me. The biggest headache was the spacing of the tile sheets (they were 12” x 12”) so that the spacing between sheets matched the tile spacing within the sheets. I got my tile mosaics from HomeDepot and the quality control of the sheets wasn’t the best. Some individual tiles in the sheets at the edges had more gap than others which made the laying of the sheets side by side sometimes tricky. I ended up getting a lot of spacers used for subway tile to help hold the gaps consistently. The other thing that helped with the floors was I precut and dry laid everything before I mortared it in.

Thanks. I only needed probably 25 SQ Ft for the project I was using it on so I was always checking the remnants/discounts. I was at Lowes a year ago and they had the marble hex that was very close to what we wanted in the discount section. I asked the flooring manager how much was it, and he said if I took it all, he'd charge me $50 for it. There were 10 boxes and I think they each are 10 sq ft / box so while it was more than I needed, I couldn't pass it up for that price.
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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98,108
A decent track saw is probably next on my list of wood shop toys, along with helix cutter head for our 22” planer,
I meant to respond to this part earlier. My track saw is a Makita. The shared workshop space I used to rent at had a Festool, and frankly, the Makita was every bit as good as the Festool at a much lower price (at least when I bought it).

Also, if you just want a diy version, I saw this and was thinking about trying it so I can have one at our farm, vs. using a clamped down piece of wood.


and expanding our solar kiln.

How does your solar kiln work? Do you insulate/have a radiant barrier in it? What temp does it get up to? Was there a set of plans you followed? I was thinking of making one for our farm so am curious to hear other's experiences.
 

raynman

Registered User
Jan 20, 2013
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Has anyone built a deck before? I have minimal DIY skills though I have helped with built in shelving and a fence. Is it something a first timer should undertake? I have some steps leading out of my kitchen down to a patio but I’d eventually like to build a deck with some privacy “panels” above the rails as my backyard doesn’t have much privacy. A dream scenario would be a covered deck but that’s probably above my pay grade.
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
48,405
98,108
Has anyone built a deck before? I have minimal DIY skills though I have helped with built in shelving and a fence. Is it something a first timer should undertake? I have some steps leading out of my kitchen down to a patio but I’d eventually like to build a deck with some privacy “panels” above the rails as my backyard doesn’t have much privacy. A dream scenario would be a covered deck but that’s probably above my pay grade.

I've built 3 decks before and they are not very complicated. The key is just make sure you understand the codes for where you live and then go watch some YouTube videos. The vast majority of the work is pretty forgiving.

If you ever plan on having someone do a covered deck for you in the future, then be advised that many times they will rip the deck out that you built because of concerns / liability about it not supporting the weight. Two houses ago, I build a huge deck that had two connected sections. One section was 16x18 and I had plans to enclose that into a 3 season room and added extra footings for a hot tub. The adjoining part was 10x22 and that wasn't enclosed.

I way overdid the footings and actually had a cement truck come with a 1/2 load so I could fill them more easily which was great (although I learned then that they give you ALL the concrete even if it's more than your project requires). Thankfully, I did way overdo the footings because I got busy so hired out the 3 season room part of it. The builder told me he had to remove my deck because most decks weren't strong enough, but once he looked at it, he laughed and said "yeah, that will suffice".

A couple other tips:
1) It's more expensive, but composite decking is the way to go. Once you put it down, you can forget it for the rest of your life. It might mean smaller spacing between joists, but it's worth it.
NOTE: We had a fire pit on our last deck and got it way too hot one night and it melted the composite to some extent. It was still structurally sound, but you could see the ring. Make sure you have some sort of heat shield if you have a fire pit on it.
1b) I used undermount clips for the decking at the last house and it eliminated any nail/screw holes which was awesome.
2) I HATE how pressure treated lumber warps for railings unless the runs are very short, so the last deck I did, I used better, more stable lumber for the railings and posts. I used IPE which was probably overkill, but it never warped at all. It's a very heavy and dense wood so you can't even nail into it without pre-drilling, but it's a lifetime wood (and the carpenter bees can't even drill into it). The deck before that I used red cedar and that seemed to work as well.
3) If you know someone nearby who had a deck built recently, go take a look at it and see what they did. You should be able to copy some of the key aspects of it (provided the builder did it right).
4) Newer pressure treated wood is much more corrosive to nails/bolts/screws than the old arsenic based PT. For critical connections (such as the board attached to your house), use either stainless steel bolts or use a plastic sleeve round a galvanized bolt. Also, regular (even coated) deck screws will eventually corrode some and leave a "black streak" down the wood over time so if you can afford it, stainless steel screws will eliminate that.
5) If you have a friend who has built decks before, get him or her to help, or at least consult. Will make the job immensely easier.
6) Take the time to plan it out and draw it out, including all the joists/posts, etc.. You'll find many mistakes when drawing it all out that you would have made while cutting the wood.

Good luck!
 

raynman

Registered User
Jan 20, 2013
4,973
10,909
I've built 3 decks before and they are not very complicated. The key is just make sure you understand the codes for where you live and then go watch some YouTube videos. The vast majority of the work is pretty forgiving.

If you ever plan on having someone do a covered deck for you in the future, then be advised that many times they will rip the deck out that you built because of concerns / liability about it not supporting the weight. Two houses ago, I build a huge deck that had two connected sections. One section was 16x18 and I had plans to enclose that into a 3 season room and added extra footings for a hot tub. The adjoining part was 10x22 and that wasn't enclosed.

I way overdid the footings and actually had a cement truck come with a 1/2 load so I could fill them more easily which was great (although I learned then that they give you ALL the concrete even if it's more than your project requires). Thankfully, I did way overdo the footings because I got busy so hired out the 3 season room part of it. The builder told me he had to remove my deck because most decks weren't strong enough, but once he looked at it, he laughed and said "yeah, that will suffice".

A couple other tips:
1) It's more expensive, but composite decking is the way to go. Once you put it down, you can forget it for the rest of your life. It might mean smaller spacing between joists, but it's worth it.
NOTE: We had a fire pit on our last deck and got it way too hot one night and it melted the composite to some extent. It was still structurally sound, but you could see the ring. Make sure you have some sort of heat shield if you have a fire pit on it.
1b) I used undermount clips for the decking at the last house and it eliminated any nail/screw holes which was awesome.
2) I HATE how pressure treated lumber warps for railings unless the runs are very short, so the last deck I did, I used better, more stable lumber for the railings and posts. I used IPE which was probably overkill, but it never warped at all. It's a very heavy and dense wood so you can't even nail into it without pre-drilling, but it's a lifetime wood (and the carpenter bees can't even drill into it). The deck before that I used red cedar and that seemed to work as well.
3) If you know someone nearby who had a deck built recently, go take a look at it and see what they did. You should be able to copy some of the key aspects of it (provided the builder did it right).
4) Newer pressure treated wood is much more corrosive to nails/bolts/screws than the old arsenic based PT. For critical connections (such as the board attached to your house), use either stainless steel bolts or use a plastic sleeve round a galvanized bolt. Also, regular (even coated) deck screws will eventually corrode some and leave a "black streak" down the wood over time so if you can afford it, stainless steel screws will eliminate that.
5) If you have a friend who has built decks before, get him or her to help, or at least consult. Will make the job immensely easier.
6) Take the time to plan it out and draw it out, including all the joists/posts, etc.. You'll find many mistakes when drawing it all out that you would have made while cutting the wood.

Good luck!
This is all in the lusting after sweet deck pics stage but thank you for the tips. Might have to get serious and plan a spring project
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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Fair warning - composite decking "saw dust" is a major sinus infection waiting to happen. Wear a mask or something.

Source: experience :laugh:

What's weird is that pine is the worst for me. Whether just plain pine or pressure treated southern yellow pine, it drives my allergies crazy. Oak, Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Cedar, Poplar and even composite never bothers me (although I do wear a mask when making a lot of sawdust with any of these), but pine dust just makes my allergies go crazy.

EDIT: But Pine Pollen has no impact on my allergies, nor am I allergic to it (via allergy tests). Weird.
 

Anton Dubinchuk

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What's weird is that pine is the worst for me. Whether just plain pine or pressure treated southern yellow pine, it drives my allergies crazy. Oak, Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Cedar, Poplar and even composite never bothers me (although I do wear a mask when making a lot of sawdust with any of these), but pine dust just makes my allergies go crazy.

EDIT: But Pine Pollen has no impact on my allergies, nor am I allergic to it (via allergy tests). Weird.

For me it wasn't allergies, I think it was just physically inhaling this stuff. This would've been 10 years ago that we built this deck, and I can still feel the sore throat that eventually came from it...
 
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MinJaBen

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Fair warning: composite decking requires asbestos feet. That shit gets HOT in the summer sun down here.








Now that said, we have that on our deck because we got tired of the wood upkeep.
 
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ndp

Hurricanes Pessimist
Oct 29, 2015
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I meant to respond to this part earlier. My track saw is a Makita. The shared workshop space I used to rent at had a Festool, and frankly, the Makita was every bit as good as the Festool at a much lower price (at least when I bought it).

Also, if you just want a diy version, I saw this and was thinking about trying it so I can have one at our farm, vs. using a clamped down piece of wood.




How does your solar kiln work? Do you insulate/have a radiant barrier in it? What temp does it get up to? Was there a set of plans you followed? I was thinking of making one for our farm so am curious to hear other's experiences.
Pops is a Mikita guy through and through, I can’t think of anything we would ever need that could justify Festool money.

Our kiln is the old VTech standard design, I think they’ve done some upgrades and made some improvements since we built ours. Pops went to a free workshop about 15 years ago where they went over the design and handed out a pretty crude booklet. I think ours gets up to around 120, we’ve got an old ass moisture meter and when our 4/4 stuff gets down to about 10% we move it to a covered 3 sided shed. Having the sawmill is nice but it’s a lot of work, we still buy A LOT of our lumber.
 

Cardiac Jerks

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Jan 13, 2006
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Long Sault, Ontario
I meant to respond to this part earlier. My track saw is a Makita. The shared workshop space I used to rent at had a Festool, and frankly, the Makita was every bit as good as the Festool at a much lower price (at least when I bought it).

Also, if you just want a diy version, I saw this and was thinking about trying it so I can have one at our farm, vs. using a clamped down piece of wood.




How does your solar kiln work? Do you insulate/have a radiant barrier in it? What temp does it get up to? Was there a set of plans you followed? I was thinking of making one for our farm so am curious to hear other's experiences.

Another vote for the makita. I’ve had their corded track saw for years now and love it. Splurged on the 118” track this summer along with the tpg system and have a nice cut station setup for breaking down my sheet goods.

You couldn’t convince me the festool is any better. The mafell is another story but some of their tools make festool look affordable. I’m currently coveting their jigsaw and trying my best not to order it since I recently dropped $700 on my first really good sander. Sanding and finishing are not something I typically enjoy but I’m working on getting better at it.
 

Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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Speaking of Festool, I’ve had the chance to try a number of their products via friends or through the workshop I was part of. I would agree most of their tools aren’t worth the price, with maybe a couple exceptions.

1. The domino joiner is outstanding. One of the best and most versatile tools I’ve used. It’s awesome and saves gobs of time, particularly if you do a lot of joinery.

2. Their 125 random orbital sander is really good. Maybe not completely worth the money, but if you do a lot of sanding, it’s a consideration. When my 25+ year old, made in the US, porter cable died, I tried two Ridgid (junk), a Bosch (decent) and a Makita (decent). The Festool I tried was a dream compared to the others. I’ve heard their other sanders are good as well. I’ve not regretted that purchase at all.

3. Their dust extractors. The workshop I was part of had Fein Turbo 1, Turbo 2 dust extractors. In my old workshop, I had a large diy downdraft table connected to my dust collector and used a shop vac as well. I no longer have the space so portability is key. A guy I know that does cabinetry/cabinet refinishing swore by them and let me try his before deciding. Amazing how efficient and portable it was. If I had gobs of space like I do at the farm, I wouldn’t consider it, but a small space where portability is key? It might be worth it.

I’ve used their Kapex saw before and it cuts no better than my 15 year old Makita compound miter saw. The dust collection is better and it’s footprint is smaller, but it doesn’t cut any better. I was told the blades are unique as well.

I didn’t see anything in their router, jigsaw, track saw, or drills that warranted the premium price.
 

Cardiac Jerks

Asinine & immoral
Jan 13, 2006
23,395
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Long Sault, Ontario
Speaking of Festool, I’ve had the chance to try a number of their products via friends or through the workshop I was part of. I would agree most of their tools aren’t worth the price, with maybe a couple exceptions.

1. The domino joiner is outstanding. One of the best and most versatile tools I’ve used. It’s awesome and saves gobs of time, particularly if you do a lot of joinery.

2. Their 125 random orbital sander is really good. Maybe not completely worth the money, but if you do a lot of sanding, it’s a consideration. When my 25+ year old, made in the US, porter cable died, I tried two Ridgid (junk), a Bosch (decent) and a Makita (decent). The Festool I tried was a dream compared to the others. I’ve heard their other sanders are good as well. I’ve not regretted that purchase at all.

3. Their dust extractors. The workshop I was part of had Fein Turbo 1, Turbo 2 dust extractors. In my old workshop, I had a large diy downdraft table connected to my dust collector and used a shop vac as well. I no longer have the space so portability is key. A guy I know that does cabinetry/cabinet refinishing swore by them and let me try his before deciding. Amazing how efficient and portable it was. If I had gobs of space like I do at the farm, I wouldn’t consider it, but a small space where portability is key? It might be worth it.

I’ve used their Kapex saw before and it cuts no better than my 15 year old Makita compound miter saw. The dust collection is better and it’s footprint is smaller, but it doesn’t cut any better. I was told the blades are unique as well.

I didn’t see anything in their router, jigsaw, track saw, or drills that warranted the premium price.
I was close to buying a festool sander but ended up going with the new 3m xtract after finding a really good deal through a YouTube woodworking channel I follow.

I agree the domino is incredible - hope to own one some day. The kapex bevel adjustment looks amazing but that’s a $2000 saw in Canada which I just can’t justify. Can get a nice Dewalt for less than half.

Have watched several head to head tests with their drills and drivers and they’re incredibly underpowered. Their prices are constantly rising, as well.
 
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Boom Boom Apathy

I am the Professor. Deal with it!
Sep 6, 2006
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I was close to buying a festool sander but ended up going with the new 3m xtract after finding a really good deal through a YouTube woodworking channel I follow.

I'll have to look into that.
I agree the domino is incredible - hope to own one some day. The kapex bevel adjustment looks amazing but that’s a $2000 saw in Canada which I just can’t justify. Can get a nice Dewalt for less than half.
The bevel adjustment is a bit more convenient, but it isn't anything special IMO (at least on the one I got to use for a while). Like I said, my Makita cuts just as well and I've dropped that off the back of a tailgate a couple of times. That said, I set up and tune the Makita and since it wasn't mine, I didn't tune the Festool.
 

Cardiac Jerks

Asinine & immoral
Jan 13, 2006
23,395
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Long Sault, Ontario
I'll have to look into that.

The bevel adjustment is a bit more convenient, but it isn't anything special IMO (at least on the one I got to use for a while). Like I said, my Makita cuts just as well and I've dropped that off the back of a tailgate a couple of times. That said, I set up and tune the Makita and since it wasn't mine, I didn't tune the Festool.

This was the video that convinced me to buy it:

Their sandpaper also is getting pretty great reviews.

Have heard the kapex comes in pretty rough shape quite frequently and needs a lot of work to tune up. Definitely not something I’d be happy about doing after spending that much. Supposedly the motors burn up fairly frequently, as well. I’ll likely go with another Dewalt once I size up to a larger saw.
 
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