PC Building Guide and Discussion #13

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SolidSnakeUS

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I currently have a i7-6700K, do you think (while it's not out yet, clearly) it would be a worthwhile upgrade to go to the 4th gen Ryzen when it comes out?
 

PK Cronin

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I just updated my motherboard, CPU, and RAM. Booted up without an issue, loaded up CS GO just to test something, was messing around for a half hour to an hour. The computer then randomly restarted and got stuck in a boot loop before the BIOS comes up. My initial thought was that the CPU had overheated, but it was late so I went to bed. Went to turn it on this morning and the bootloop issue is still present. It can be any number of things from what I briefly looked up online but figured I'd ask here to see if anyone had any suggestions for things to check first when I get home from work.

Any help is appreciated.
 

SniperHF

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I just updated my motherboard, CPU, and RAM. Booted up without an issue, loaded up CS GO just to test something, was messing around for a half hour to an hour. The computer then randomly restarted and got stuck in a boot loop before the BIOS comes up. but it was late so I went to bed. Went to turn it on this morning and the bootloop issue is still present. It can be any number of things from what I briefly looked up online but figured I'd ask here to see if anyone had any suggestions for things to check first when I get home from work.

Describe the boot loop. Does it just show a splash screen, stop, and restart? Black screen? something else?
Does the system actually shut all the way down and start back up again by itself?



My initial thought was that the CPU had overheated,

FWIW a CPU would have to MASSIVELY overheat to actually shut your PC down. They usually throttle back the speed and keep the temps in line before that happens.
 

PK Cronin

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Describe the boot loop. Does it just show a splash screen, stop, and restart? Black screen? something else?
Does the system actually shut all the way down and start back up again by itself?





FWIW a CPU would have to MASSIVELY overheat to actually shut your PC down. They usually throttle back the speed and keep the temps in line before that happens.

All my monitors go black, and I can hear everything switch off/lose power inside the case. It then revs back up, some lights inside the case turn on for a second, then it revs back down and goes off only to re-start again by itself. The only way I've been able to get it to stop is to manually flip the switch on the PSU. I'll see if I can upload a video of it.

Edit: Here's a short video I took of it earlier today. It will do this until I turn the power off.

 

WickedWrister

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Haven't built a PC in roughly 10+ years, so I'm definitely not as current on my technology as I should be. I hear AMD's new CPU's are very nice and appropriately priced though.

Ironically, I built my last PC so I could play half-life 2. Now, I want to build a rig to play the new HL VR.

Targeting around $1200 including peripherals (VR headset not included). Is this doable?
 

aleshemsky83

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Haven't built a PC in roughly 10+ years, so I'm definitely not as current on my technology as I should be. I hear AMD's new CPU's are very nice and appropriately priced though.

Ironically, I built my last PC so I could play half-life 2. Now, I want to build a rig to play the new HL VR.

Targeting around $1200 including peripherals (VR headset not included). Is this doable?
They're good, I would say for price-performance, you want either a on sale/ used r5 1600, r7 2700x, or the r5 3600. With the 1600 being the weakest but cheapest, and the 2700x and 3600 being roughly the same in gaming (and usually the same price however the 2700x has some big sales) despite core count and clock differences.
 
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SniperHF

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All my monitors go black, and I can hear everything switch off/lose power inside the case. It then revs back up, some lights inside the case turn on for a second, then it revs back down and goes off only to re-start again by itself. The only way I've been able to get it to stop is to manually flip the switch on the PSU. I'll see if I can upload a video of it.

Since it's not POSTing, and it happened during use, I'd think power or motherboard.

Given that's an Antec 900 case (classic case) I'd guess your system is a bit older?
Failing power supply would be my first look. An extremely dirty and not proof positive way to test it would be to outright remove your video card and see if it still stay on without it. No video card, less power draw.


For the motherboard you could try popping the CMOS battery (unplug the system, remove the battery for ~30 seconds, put it back in). The battery looks like a silver coin and is held in by a latch you move to the side with a small flathead. I'd be surprised if this helped but it's free :P

A short on the motherboard can do this as well, like if there's a screw jumping two leads or something. But since it happened during use I doubt that's it. But you could take a look around.
 

PK Cronin

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Since it's not POSTing, and it happened during use, I'd think power or motherboard.

Given that's an Antec 900 case (classic case) I'd guess your system is a bit older?
Failing power supply would be my first look. An extremely dirty and not proof positive way to test it would be to outright remove your video card and see if it still stay on without it. No video card, less power draw.


For the motherboard you could try popping the CMOS battery (unplug the system, remove the battery for ~30 seconds, put it back in). The battery looks like a silver coin and is held in by a latch you move to the side with a small flathead. I'd be surprised if this helped but it's free :P

A short on the motherboard can do this as well, like if there's a screw jumping two leads or something. But since it happened during use I doubt that's it. But you could take a look around.

I just updated the motherboard (gigabyte z390 m),CPU, psu, and ram so all four are new. Hopefully nothing has been damaged. I just got home so I'm going to give a look. The PSU I had before didn't have the appropriate connections for the new Mobo so I had to replace it because it was old.
 

PK Cronin

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@SniperHF I changed the slots that the RAM was in and the computer stayed on longer but wouldn't post still. So I took out the GPU to eliminate the new PSU as the culprit and it did the same thing, stayed on longer than last night but still didn't post. Then I took out the battery and put it back, same thing.

Could it be the CPU you think or does it have to be the mobo at this point? I figure I'll just leave the GPU out until I figure out what's wrong so I keep one variable out of the equation.

Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it, when I moved the RAM I had to tip the tower over and I'm wondering if the CPU isn't sitting properly but rocked closer into place or something.
 
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SniperHF

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Does the motherboard have any LEDs and are they on? Are they normally on? Mine has some that stay on even if the system is off for example. Do they turn on when you power it up?

@SniperHF I changed the slots that the RAM was in and the computer stayed on longer but wouldn't post still. So I took out the GPU to eliminate the new PSU as the culprit and it did the same thing,

Does not eliminate PSU as the culprit unfortunately. Have your old PSU laying around?



Could it be the CPU you think or does it have to be the mobo at this point?

Bad CPU (which generally behaves the same way as not even having one) will not usually cause the system to boot up and down like that, it will come up and stay up and if you have one of those old school PC Speakers attached, beep like a mother.


Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it, when I moved the RAM I had to tip the tower over and I'm wondering if the CPU isn't sitting properly but rocked closer into place or something.

Possible but it would more likely do what I described above, which is power up and stay on but throw errors. Also between the ZIF and the heatsink I doubt it came unsocketed, unless it wasn't in right in the first place anyway.
 

PK Cronin

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Does the motherboard have any LEDs and are they on? Are they normally on? Mine has some that stay on even if the system is off for example. Do they turn on when you power it up?

The thermal armor and audio noise guard are the only things that light up on the board, and they only turn on when the computer is running.

Does not eliminate PSU as the culprit unfortunately. Have your old PSU laying around?

Yeah, I just swapped it out so it's laying on the floor next to case, along with the old motherboard and CPU. :laugh:




Bad CPU (which generally behaves the same way as not even having one) will not usually cause the system to boot up and down like that, it will come up and stay up and if you have one of those old school PC Speakers attached, beep like a mother.

Good to know.



Possible but it would more likely do what I described above, which is power up and stay on but throw errors. Also between the ZIF and the heatsink I doubt it came unsocketed, unless it wasn't in right in the first place anyway.

Looks like I'm going to have to take it all apart and just start over and see if I knocked something loose or whatever when I put it together originally.
 

flyingkiwi

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@PK Cronin maybe check your cpu socket for bent pins, they’re very easy to get on an Intel board. A few years ago my PC was booting in the same way and turns out I had accidentally hit a couple of them.
 
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SniperHF

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Yeah, I just swapped it out so it's laying on the floor next to case, along with the old motherboard and CPU. :laugh:

Assuming it's capable, I would try using your old PSU.

You don't even have to take the old one out just do it on a desk or something sitting next to the tower and run the cables quick and dirty.

The Big ATX cable and the 8 Pin EPS cable that also plugs into the motherboard. Probably the only two you need.
 

sigma six

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I too have the new build blues. Getting BSODs while gaming or streaming a show and don't even know where to begin.
I have never run into so many problems after building a new PC.

 

SniperHF

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I too have the new build blues. Getting BSODs while gaming or streaming a show and don't even know where to begin.
I have never run into so many problems after building a new PC.

Is it overclocked? I see a WHEA Logger. Those are often caused by bad OCs.
 

Osprey

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I too have the new build blues. Getting BSODs while gaming or streaming a show and don't even know where to begin.
I have never run into so many problems after building a new PC.

Remove all of your RAM except for one stick. If it still BSODs, try replacing that one stick with another. If it still BSODs, it's probably not your RAM.

As SniperHF alluded to, turn off all overclocking. In fact, I would load your BIOS defaults, either by selecting the option if you have it or resetting it with the jumper on your motherboard.
 

sigma six

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Remove all of your RAM except for one stick. If it still BSODs, try replacing that one stick with another. If it still BSODs, it's probably not your RAM.

As SniperHF alluded to, turn off all overclocking. In fact, I would load your BIOS defaults, either by selecting the option if you have it or resetting it with the jumper on your motherboard.

It's not oc'd, at least not by me. As I understand it Ryzen will boost itself if temps are normal? Which they appear to be.

I did run Windows' memory diagnostic yesterday and it didn't report errors but I will do the musical dimms thing next as you suggested. Is Memtest 86 still a thing?:D

If that doesn't solve it I'll do a BIOS update, and if *that* doesn't stop the bsods I'll begin to suspect the power supply. It's a 750w Seasonic and they have a great reputation, but I realize anyone can make a brick.

The critical stops mainly seem to be
Event ID 41 task 63 source Kernel power.
I'll report back after work when I can dig into this, thanks fellas for weighing in. It's gotten frustrating and seeing so much in the event viewer last night freaked me out, haha.
 
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PK Cronin

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Assuming it's capable, I would try using your old PSU.

You don't even have to take the old one out just do it on a desk or something sitting next to the tower and run the cables quick and dirty.

The Big ATX cable and the 8 Pin EPS cable that also plugs into the motherboard. Probably the only two you need.

So instead of using the old PSU on the new stuff, I used the new PSU on the old stuff and it worked just fine. My motherboard booted and stayed on without an issue.

On to the next thing. :laugh::help:

At least I'm off today and can spend the day testing different things.
 
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SniperHF

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These are that newer GSkill Neo (2 x 16) that run at 3600. stock timings.

Technically Ryzen 3600 (I assume that's what we're talking about?) Is rated for 3200mhz. I would lower the speed and see if it clears up your issue. Normally CPUs will run well above their spec speed but not always.
 
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sigma six

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Hmm. Mine is a 3700x but that is another good idea to take a look at. I've seen quite a few who just enable XMP on their boards and ran at the advertised 3600 mhz with CAS 16 but that doesn't mean I'll get the same. The board is an MSI x570 pro carbon by the way.
 
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