Coast Hockey League. Generally evenly matched teams within each division (helps that they have around a dozen divisions, and re-seed you into the proper division after 8ish games, makes it easy to get teams well matched), most teams seem to be full of pretty good guys with fairly minimal chippiness/B.S. (beside the expected shoving/odd hit/bits of stickwork), and free parking
Not perfect or anything, it's all the way in Richmond, many refs clearly want to just go home at times and go into "call nothing, not even icings" mode, and the length of the 3rd period is not fixed, but overall I've been loving it, fairly well run league with teams made up of mostly good guys who compete hard without crossing the line too often.