Switched Patterns..
- Thread starter OpenIceHit42
- Start date
Fly Like a C5
Registered User
- Dec 22, 2008
- 819
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Could be that you are leaving the the face of the blade open and not rolling your wrist as you shoot. Do you finish your shot with the face or the blade pointing down and the shaft pointing at the target?
OpenIceHit42
Registered User
So you're only having this problem on slap shots, not snap shots? Normally I'd say that since you were going from somewhat of a mid-toe curve (Sakic) to a heel curve (Getzlaf) that you might be shooting with the puck starting in the mid-toe area, while heel curves require you to shoot from the mid-heel area, but that's something I'd expect you to notice more on snap/wrist shots, as slap shots with open heel wedges like the Getzlaf tend to be pretty forgiving in terms of where you strike the puck. Still, trying to make sure you're striking the puck in the mid-heel area, not closer to the toe.
Agreed with secretsquirrel that you should make sure you aren't opening up the face of the blade when shooting, keep it closed, let the loft built into the blade and the flex of the stick get the puck up.
One other tip would be to hit the ice just slightly with the toe first, like this:
Your blade ends up flat on the ice anyways, but I find it gets my wrists in position to automatically roll/snap at the end of the shot. With wrist and snap shots is easy to build that roll/snap into your shots, with slappers I find it tougher to time properly unless I strike as in the video above, slightly toe first. Don't go overboard with it, your blade is almost flat when striking the ice, the toe hits only just slightly first. Once you get the hang of it, I find this style is great for shooting low, hard, accurate slappers. If I want to shoot high I strike more mid blade first, not sure if that's proper technique or not, just what I do.
Finally, is the blade of your stick still stiff? Soft blades can throw off my shots, just put your thumb in the middle of the blade, grab the toe with your fingers, and try to flex it, if it flexes easily your blade may have gone soft.
Agreed with secretsquirrel that you should make sure you aren't opening up the face of the blade when shooting, keep it closed, let the loft built into the blade and the flex of the stick get the puck up.
One other tip would be to hit the ice just slightly with the toe first, like this:
Your blade ends up flat on the ice anyways, but I find it gets my wrists in position to automatically roll/snap at the end of the shot. With wrist and snap shots is easy to build that roll/snap into your shots, with slappers I find it tougher to time properly unless I strike as in the video above, slightly toe first. Don't go overboard with it, your blade is almost flat when striking the ice, the toe hits only just slightly first. Once you get the hang of it, I find this style is great for shooting low, hard, accurate slappers. If I want to shoot high I strike more mid blade first, not sure if that's proper technique or not, just what I do.
Finally, is the blade of your stick still stiff? Soft blades can throw off my shots, just put your thumb in the middle of the blade, grab the toe with your fingers, and try to flex it, if it flexes easily your blade may have gone soft.
Last edited:
Recast
Registered User
Figured I should ask my question here before I start a new thread.
I've been using the Nash/Draper curve for as long as I can remember and have been thinking about going with a Bauer Stamkos. Just wondering if it will be that big of a difference.
Also, I seem to have problems stick handling on ice with an Intermediate Warrior AK Draper but, when I used to play street hockey and used a much shorter stick I was actually a pretty slick dangler. Is that more the length of the stick than the curve or just because balls are easier to stickhandle with than pucks?
I've been using the Nash/Draper curve for as long as I can remember and have been thinking about going with a Bauer Stamkos. Just wondering if it will be that big of a difference.
Also, I seem to have problems stick handling on ice with an Intermediate Warrior AK Draper but, when I used to play street hockey and used a much shorter stick I was actually a pretty slick dangler. Is that more the length of the stick than the curve or just because balls are easier to stickhandle with than pucks?
There's no easy answer to your stickhandling question, but re curves, the Warrior Draper is a very similar curve to the Bauer P92 (Backstrom). The Bauer PM9 (Stamkos) is a totally different curve, it's a gradual mid/heel curve with a slightly open face, while the Draper/P92 is a deeper mid/toe curve, you likely won't easily transition between the two. If you've been using a lie 5 Draper, and like the lie, do with the P92. If you've been using a lie 4 Draper, and like the lie, you could try the Bauer P88. Listed as the same lie as the P92, but it's not, it's a lower lie. A bit of a different curve, less open and more of a true mid curve than a mid/toe, but shouldn't be too tough of a transition.
Jarick
Doing Nothing
Man, look how long Al's bottom hand is on the shaft, and look how much deflection he gets. Just beautiful.
A lot of times flutter on a slap shot can be because you need to close up the blade before striking the ice/puck, or else the lie or rocker are messing up your timing and mechanics. You want the blade closed as you hit the ground, like that Al shot, and the weight of the puck will open the blade back up. If the lie is off, the blade will torque funny and the puck will flutter.
A lot of times flutter on a slap shot can be because you need to close up the blade before striking the ice/puck, or else the lie or rocker are messing up your timing and mechanics. You want the blade closed as you hit the ground, like that Al shot, and the weight of the puck will open the blade back up. If the lie is off, the blade will torque funny and the puck will flutter.
perhaps your stick is broken? If you've been playing for 21 years I'm confident you have the technique down. There could be a crack on the inside of your shaft or blade that throws off the loading.
OpenIceHit42
Registered User
Shaft is fine, I've checked it a few times. I am gonna give the blade a look in a little while.
Pajicz
Registered User
- Mar 22, 2011
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bosshogg18
Registered User
It could be because the Getzlaf pattern has a square toe and the Sakic is round. There is that split second longer that the pucks is on the blade in the bottom corner.
I tend to used square patterned toes because I like them better for digging pucks off the boards. I haven't noticed a flutter on my shot, but it may be different for everyone. See if someone else has a square toed blade next time you play, Getzlaf or any other and ask to take a shot with it and see if the problem persists. Just my 2 cents.
I tend to used square patterned toes because I like them better for digging pucks off the boards. I haven't noticed a flutter on my shot, but it may be different for everyone. See if someone else has a square toed blade next time you play, Getzlaf or any other and ask to take a shot with it and see if the problem persists. Just my 2 cents.
This could depend on a number of factors... stick composite material, shot mechanics.
when you take a shot you're imparting a force moment onto the stick, and in an ideal situation, all the force gets transferred linearly to the puck. With cracks in your stick, you lose some of the force from your shot, and could be unevenly loading your stick so the shot comes off funny.
I would check if your stick is splintering at the top or bottom.
Jerry Lundegaard
Sutter for Captain
I would imagine that there is a split somewhere in the blade.
The lie on the 2 patterns are the same, so i'd think the problem would be a crack
Which stick is it exactly? Easton stealth blades split along the bottom pretty easily.
The lie on the 2 patterns are the same, so i'd think the problem would be a crack
Which stick is it exactly? Easton stealth blades split along the bottom pretty easily.
