Recommend me a stick

Discussion in 'The Rink' started by Bruins37, Mar 26, 2011.

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  1. Bruins37

    Bruins37 Registered User

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    The last competitive game I played in was about 10 years ago in high school. I'm going to be joining a league soon and its time to trade in my old wooden stick. I've never used a composite before so I am having a tough time trying to figure out what kind of stick I want/need. I'm not trying to break the bank, hoping to keep the price under $90.

    I'm looking at the Reebok 6k Sickkick 2010, any thoughts?
     
  2. Gibson19

    Gibson19 Registered User

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    I have a 5k sickkick with the grip and with the Duchene curve. I like it a lot. Definitely lighter than my old wooden stick and it feels much more solid. Its pretty heavy though, I don't remember the 6k being much lighter either. Granted I am comparing it to $150-200 sticks like an SE16 or 11K.
     
  3. Ribosome

    Ribosome Registered User

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    Some helpful info would be: height, weight, and play style.

    A blade pattern can be found based on play style, and a flex on h/w proportion. Otherwise, we would be just spitting out our personal preferences which may or may not fit yours.
     
  4. mfd1068

    mfd1068 Registered User

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    I would check out your LHS to see whats on sale. You can get some really good sticks for $90 that would some times be going for 1/2 price or more.
     
  5. Bruins37

    Bruins37 Registered User

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    I'm a short guy, 5'6" and weigh 155 lbs. I pretty much only play forward and take a lot of wristers and snap shots. Hardly ever take a slap shot. I read that a good point to start with flex is that it is generally half your body weight, any truth to this?
     
  6. AIREAYE

    AIREAYE Moderator

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    that's a rule of thumb, so you'd probably look at getting an intermediate stick. Att hat price point, the 6K is a good choice, a lot of people (me included) would recommend the X:40 from Bauer. Both solid price point sticks
     
  7. Bruins37

    Bruins37 Registered User

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    I've come across a few reviews that questioned the durability with Bauer's. Have you had any issues?
     
  8. AIREAYE

    AIREAYE Moderator

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    Myself, nope. But I broke mine when I was hit from behind into the boards, the blade broke, so that's not a durability issue as much as a sudden impact. Being a beginner, you shouldn't worry about durability as you wont be using the stick to its upper limits anyhow
     
  9. Wildturkey12

    Wildturkey12 Do It!

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    I like the Easton s5 and s7 in that price range. They are pretty durable and a good entry level composite stick.
     
  10. ponder

    ponder Registered User

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  11. BumpiestBread

    BumpiestBread Registered User

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    If you're starting fresh after a long hiatus then you probably don't really know what flex or curve you prefer. Honestly, people on here will recommend what they like but you will eventually develop taste for a specific type of stick. The only way to do this is to try a variety of them until you find one that fits.

    Personally, since you don't have a preference at this time, I would suggest hockeymonkey.com's Mystery Stick Pack - last I checked it was two composite sticks for about $140, which is a great deal (even greater if you add HFBoard's 10% discount posted as a sticky). You select left or right hand and everything else is random. I've done this twice and have gotten high end sticks that I would have never bought before, and now I know what I have a preference for.
     
  12. AvDog

    AvDog Registered User

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    Bumpiest - That sounds like a great idea. I'm on my 2nd stick in my search for the one I want. If this isn't the stick I want, I'll have to try the stick pack.
     
  13. Dinoz

    Dinoz Registered User

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    If it wouldnt for the $ ill recomend you the 2011 CCM U+ CL.
     
  14. Bruins37

    Bruins37 Registered User

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    Thanks for all info guys. Does anyone know a good site that can point me in the direction of the meaning for the types of curves and lies?
     
  15. ponder

    ponder Registered User

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    Lies will generally be between 4 and 6 (sometimes higher, but rarely). A low lie stick (like a 4 or 5 lie) is good for people who stickhandle/shoot with the puck further from their body, while a high lie stick (like a 5.5 or 6) is better for people who stickhandle/shoot with the puck closer to their body. With the right lie you blade should be flat on the ice when stickhandling/shooting, if you tape the whole blade the wear on the tape after a practice should be roughly in the middle. If the wear is concentrated near the heel then you need a lower lie, if it's concentrated near the toe you need a higher lie. Lies are not totally comparable between companies, with the rocker on the blades it can be a touch arbitrary how you measure it. Warrior especially is quite different from the rest (a Warrior 4 lie, for example, is closer to a Bauer/Easton

    While we're on the topic of rocker, that refers to how flat or curved the blade is on the bottom/underside, more rocker is more domed, less rocker is more flat.

    Curves can either be heel, mid or toe curves. This refers to where the curve starts. A heel curve has most of the curve/kink near the heel, a mid curve has most of the curve/kink near the middle of the blade, and a toe curve has most of the curve/kink near the toe. Toe curves are rare, mid and heel curves are very common. If you shoot with the puck starting/cupped near the heel, a heel curve is for your, if you cup it mid blade a mid curve is for you, if you cup by the toe go with a toe curve.

    Curves can also have open or closed faces. An open face is somewhat wedge-like, good for getting shots up quickly and for saucer passes, but it can make it hard to keep shots down, and makes backhands harder. A closed face is basically straight/perpendicular to the ice, makes it easier to control height on shots in general, but isn't as good for getting shots up quickly in close, or for saucer passes.

    At the end of the day the right curve for you is all personal preference/shooting style, and you can only find the right one for you through trial and error.
     
  16. BumpiestBread

    BumpiestBread Registered User

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    This is one of the sticks I received when I ordered the hockeymonkey package mentioned above. Pretty much got it for $70, I was stoked when I unwrapped it and realized what it was. Apparently they can have dents or marks on them (perhaps they are floor models that get some action?) but mine were in perfect condition when I got them.

    It may be the 2010 model now that I think about it, but a great stick nonetheless.
     
  17. ryanx26

    ryanx26 Registered User

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    I work at Total Hockey and would recommend the Easton s14 in that price range. Very light for a 100$ one piece and it is wrapped with Kevlar all the way around. It is built very similiar to the s19. It is a limited edition stick and won't be around for long.
     
  18. mhkehoe

    mhkehoe Registered User

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    While everyone is suggesting one piece sticks, I would say buy a composite shaft and then buy cheap wood blades until you have a better idea on what curve you will use. I would recommend a standard shaft (not tapered) as you will have more selection in the blades (and if you ever end up playing outdoor roller hockey, and you can use ABS blades).

    Once you find a curve that you like, you can buy the same curve in the composite blade and just put it inside your standard shaft.

    There are a ton of composite shafts out there that are the same models (like the previously mentioned Reebok 6K - http://www.icewarehouse.com/descpage.html?pcode=SH6K10). I have the 6K in 75 mid flex, but I prefer my 2010 Warrior AK27 or TPS Redlite Control (old shaft, no longer available).

    And finally, as you become competitive, you can start trying to make further improvements in your game by using the one pieces with lower kick points and better feel.
     
  19. IDuck

    IDuck Registered User

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    this...love me some warrior and bauer
     
  20. BumpiestBread

    BumpiestBread Registered User

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    This is a great idea, especially if you become really particular about what type of curve you use. It would be a lot cheaper than the other options as well.
     
  21. ponder

    ponder Registered User

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    Despite my original suggestion of the 2009 Dolo DD (which is a great deal at that price), I actually gotta agree that if you have no idea what curve works for you, just get yourself a decently cheap shaft (a 70ish flex intermediate or a 75ish flex senior) and a bunch of cheap wood blades, and just see what works for you. The 3 most common/popular curves for your average player (not for NHLers though) are:

    - Easton Zetterberg (and clones like the PM9) - a fairly closed, mild heel/mid-heel curve
    - Easton Iginla (and clones like the P88) - a fairly closed mid curve
    - Easton Sakic/Hall (and clones like the P92) - an open mid/mid-toe curve

    If you're a real heel curve guy it'd also be worth trying open heel curves like the Easton Drury/Parise or Lidstrom/Getzlaf, but IMO most newer player will have an easier time with more of a mid curve, you really need the right technique to make those heel wedges work.


    For example:

    75 flex tapered senior 8K shaft - $70
    http://www.hockeymonkey.com/reebok-hockey-shaft-8k-2009-sr.html

    3 pack of tapered EQ50 wood blades (Hall/Sakic, Iginla and Zetterberg) - $63
    http://www.hockeymonkey.com/easton-hockey-replacement-blade-synergy-eq50-wood-sr-3pk.html


    If you find a curve you really like but the lie is not quite right, you can look into companies like Warrior and Base that offer most of their curves in a wide range of lies.
     
  22. Cousin Eddie

    Cousin Eddie You Serious Clark?

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    i would definitely go with the 6k. either that or a reebok 3.0.3. With reebok i personally love the phaneuf curve, but the most simple curve is the datsyuk, plus its a square toe so you can toe drag all day long.
     

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