PC Building Guide and Discussion #12

SolidSnakeUS

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An update on my Black Friday order of my Acer XB271HU G-Sync monitor from B&H...

Expected availability: Mar 6, 2019

Are you f***ing kidding me? It went from end of January to March? f*** you.
 

SniperHF

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1) I have a EVGA CLC 240 that I installed the other day. My first AIO cooler. I've downloaded the control software and I've noticed that my temp keeps taking huge jumps up and down. Is that normal, or possibly incorrect display? I've previously used Speccy to keep an eye on it and the increase/decrease in temp seems gradual. Now it'll go from like 25C and then show 44C, down to 30C and back and forth. 44 is the highest I've seen it go, but just don't know if that's normal behavior or something weird with the software.

On the placement I don't think that will be an issue. When you have prebuilt desktops that survive with a single exhaust fan and no intake it shouldn't be any trouble (just less than optimal) for a case with proper intake/exhaust.

For the temp fluctuation, parts heat up very quickly. For example if you have a video card with an idle fan at 0% and you watch the temp you'll see the thing go from idle temps to around 50C in no time flat then you might see it back off once the fan is spinning. It depends on the AIO pump but more and more they do not run at 100% all the time, so you could be seeing a temperature based delay on the pump ramping up. And then once it gets control and down to a level it slows down again, but then it starts to heat up again. etc etc.

So it's most likely a matter of configuring the pump to have a more linear or stepped curve as opposed to one with a few key break points. Back in the day pumps usually ran full tilt all the time but the more modern ones don't have to.

And speaking of the fans, it could easily be your fans speeding up and slowing down too if they are connected to 4 pin PWM headers or the pump software is doing it.:
Review of CLC 240 said:
Fans can be driven via PWM motherboard headers, fan controller, or linked directly to the EVGA pump fan tail to be controlled via the pump unit itself.

If the temps are never getting unsafe it's probably not a problem though. 44C is very cool.

I'm not a watercooling person so take it fwiw.
 
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SniperHF

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Sapphire releasing a 16GB version of the RX570 for miners lol

Seems like that would have sold like hotcakes a year ago. Now I dunno. RX prices have stabilized and are competitive with Nvidia again in their performances brackets so demand must be down a lot.
 

God King Fudge

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So during the course of moving things to my new case, my Windows install somehow got messed up on my SSD boot drive.

When trying to reinstall windows, it wouldn't let me, saying the drive was GPT format. I don't store anything on this drive, so I just cleaned it, converted to MBR and did a fresh install. This was on Tuesday.

Last night I left my PC running to update some Steam games and when I checked on it this morning, it was at a black screen saying "Missing Operating System". I powered off, powered back on, and Windows booted normally. My wifi usb dongle wasn't working right so I unplugged and replugged and all seems to be working as usual.

Is it possible this drive is dying? It worked fine with absolutely zero issues until I removed it from my old case and moved into my new one. Maybe something happened in the move?
 

SolidSnakeUS

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The problem is, I want to find one that is 1440p, 144Hz, 30 to 144Hz range FreeSync that has an IPS display that works perfect with G-sync.

Unless VA would be just fine instead of IPS?

Keep in mind, I got the G-Sync monitor for $519.
 

Commander Clueless

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The problem is, I want to find one that is 1440p, 144Hz, 30 to 144Hz range FreeSync that has an IPS display that works perfect with G-sync.

Unless VA would be just fine instead of IPS?

Keep in mind, I got the G-Sync monitor for $519.

VA is good. Sort of the compromise between the two, although I still prefer IPS.

Unfortunately, the G-Sync compatibility list is pretty short, although there are reports that there are many FreeSync monitors that work great with G-Sync despite not being on the list.

I can understand why you wouldn't want to risk it, though.
 

SniperHF

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Is it possible this drive is dying? It worked fine with absolutely zero issues until I removed it from my old case and moved into my new one. Maybe something happened in the move?

Could be (SSDs don't often show signs of dying they just get flaky then stop working) but it was probably just a loose connection if unplug/replug worked.
 

Dick Sledge

The Tactleneck
Feb 11, 2009
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The problem is, I want to find one that is 1440p, 144Hz, 30 to 144Hz range FreeSync that has an IPS display that works perfect with G-sync.

Unless VA would be just fine instead of IPS?

Keep in mind, I got the G-Sync monitor for $519.

Once I feel like spending the money I'm going to get the Viotek gn27d in white though.

I'm actually starting an all white build. Got my case and aio in the mail already.

Neither here nor there. It's only $350 for a 1440p 144hz VA curved (slightly) Freesync panel with vesa.
 

expatriatedtexan

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Aug 17, 2005
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Any SFF builders around here?

I finally built my wife's computer inside of a Dan Case A4-SFX. The GPU is a 2070 and it's more than okay for her needs. The CPU is a stock 8700 (non-K). I put a Cryorig C-7 on it to keep it cool but that thing is so close to the side panel there is just a lot of air turbulence (noise) coming from it. I know the Noctua NH-L9i is rated for 95TDP and the cpu we have is 65TDP but that is the base clock, the turbo boost to 4.6 will cause it to go much higher. Anyone know if the Noctua will keep it cool? It's a smaller cooler so should be quieter but I'm worried about throttling and temps. I'd be willing to de-lid it (well actually willing to allow silicon lottery to do it for me) if that would allow the NH-L9i to work.
 

SniperHF

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I finally built my wife's computer inside of a Dan Case A4-SFX. The GPU is a 2070 and it's more than okay for her needs. The CPU is a stock 8700 (non-K). I put a Cryorig C-7 on it to keep it cool but that thing is so close to the side panel there is just a lot of air turbulence (noise) coming from it. I know the Noctua NH-L9i is rated for 95TDP and the cpu we have is 65TDP but that is the base clock, the turbo boost to 4.6 will cause it to go much higher. Anyone know if the Noctua will keep it cool? It's a smaller cooler so should be quieter but I'm worried about throttling and temps. I'd be willing to de-lid it (well actually willing to allow silicon lottery to do it for me) if that would allow the NH-L9i to work.

Intel's don't throttle until temps are *very* high I wouldn't worry about it too much. I have an MSI Probox which is quite a bit smaller than the Dan Cases and even the stock cooling does well enough.
 

SniperHF

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Played around with "enhanced sync" (Nvidia's version is Fast Sync) today. have to say I'm not a fan.
It's like Vsync but without a frame cap. So it does eliminate tearing and slightly decrease latency but at least on a 75hz monitor it microstutters like a bitch. Maybe it would be better on a 144hz.

Back to a plain old frame rate cap for me.
 

kr580

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Anyone have some good ideas for more inexpensive and/or used computer parts? My buddy needs a desktop to get started with his computer-based classes and I have some leftover parts to get a build started. Have this so far: System Builder - Radeon HD 5770 1 GB, Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower - PCPartPicker . I'm hoping to get him a middle ground CPU with maybe 4-8gb RAM with a mobo that's not super outdated. Doesn't need to be amazing but I don't want it SLOW either. Decent is fine. The most intensive program he'll use is Photoshop, no gaming. I'm so far out of the CPU/Mobo game I don't even know what socket we're on.

Where should I get started? I'm hoping to keep it under $150 if that's even possible. Is there any kind of budget king these days? Thanks
 

SniperHF

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Where should I get started? I'm hoping to keep it under $150 if that's even possible. Is there any kind of budget king these days? Thanks

Used is kind of a minefield for motherboards, I'd avoid it in this situation.

RAM prices make this somewhat difficult.
But you can come in close-ish to that.

For photoshop (at least current versions) I think 4GB is not a realistic option so 8GB minimum.

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B079D3DBNM
ASRock X370M PRO4 AM4 AMD Promontory X370 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Newegg.com
GeIL EVO SPEAR AMD Edition 8GB (2 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Desktop Memory Model GASB48GB2400C16DC - Newegg.com

So that's about $212
Quad core, 8GB RAM, DDR4, modern platform for upgradability.


You can downgrade the motherboard and save a little bit of $:
ASRock A320M AM4 AMD Promontory A320 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Newegg.com

And you can downgrade the CPU to a 220GE and save about $30:
AMD Athlon 200GE 2-Core, 4-Thread, 3.2 GHz Base, Socket AM4 35W YD200GC6FBBOX Desktop Processor - Newegg.com


I prefer the 2200G, it's a lot faster.

Also the first CPU I linked (2200G) have integrated graphics that are actually faster than an old Radeon 5770. So you can yank the old 5770 out of the build and save some electricity.

The 220GE has integrated graphics as well but they are worse than the 5770. Probably still good enough for non-gaming though.

If $212 can be managed I'd do that. If not one or both of the cheap out options will still get the job done. But the 2200G really is a lot better than the 220GE.
 

Osprey

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You should really go with a minimum of 8GB. 4GB will make the system feel slow even when you have only one thing open. I know because I had to make do with 4GB for a few weeks last year and it was awful.

Also, I would consider getting an SSD, even though you might have to settle for 256GB or, if you bump up your budget $15, 512GB. I bought the Silicon Power 512GB that currently sells for $58 on Amazon and am very happy with it. If it's for school, he probably doesn't need 1TB, anyways. Most of that space will go wasted. An SSD, on the other hand, would do wonders for making the system feel very snappy, even if you totally cheap out on the CPU. I can speak from experience because my CPU (an FX 6300) is over 6 years old and Windows runs great. Also, I've found that Photoshop launches much faster from SSD (<5s) than HDD (~20s).

BTW, when I need something cheap, I usually look on eBay. You can find lots of people selling used motherboard+CPU+RAM combos for $100, give or take. For that price, they'll be 3-5 years old, but still plenty fast enough for your friend's light use. If you can, follow SniperHF's advice, but, if you can't and have to go used and as cheap as possible, that's an option.
 
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Commander Clueless

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Sep 10, 2008
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Played around with "enhanced sync" (Nvidia's version is Fast Sync) today. have to say I'm not a fan.
It's like Vsync but without a frame cap. So it does eliminate tearing and slightly decrease latency but at least on a 75hz monitor it microstutters like a *****. Maybe it would be better on a 144hz.

Back to a plain old frame rate cap for me.

There really is no substitute for capping the frame rate at something you can maintain, is there? :laugh:


I mean, G-Sync comes close, but still.
 

SolidSnakeUS

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Aug 13, 2009
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My friend got so pissed at one of the DBZ games (I think Tenkaichi 3 or Budokai 3) that he punched his TV hard enough to blow the vacuum out of the back of the tube :laugh:.
 

PK Cronin

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Feb 11, 2013
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Anyone have some good ideas for more inexpensive and/or used computer parts? My buddy needs a desktop to get started with his computer-based classes and I have some leftover parts to get a build started. Have this so far: System Builder - Radeon HD 5770 1 GB, Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower - PCPartPicker . I'm hoping to get him a middle ground CPU with maybe 4-8gb RAM with a mobo that's not super outdated. Doesn't need to be amazing but I don't want it SLOW either. Decent is fine. The most intensive program he'll use is Photoshop, no gaming. I'm so far out of the CPU/Mobo game I don't even know what socket we're on.

Where should I get started? I'm hoping to keep it under $150 if that's even possible. Is there any kind of budget king these days? Thanks

You absolutely need 8gb of RAM at a minimum to run Photoshop. I have 16gb's and often think about upgrading. It does depend upon why type of work with Photoshop your friend will be doing, but pretty much anything beyond a very basic level will require more than 4gb.
 

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