Equipment: STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice PART 2

[Joey Moss]

Does anyone know an equivalent curve to Sherwood's PP12IG?

I was looking on prostockhockey.com for a pro stock with a 6-7 lie but the curves are so hard to read when looking at pictures and they don't have Sherwood sticks. I'm not even picky about the brand because it's for ball hockey, I'm more just looking for PP12, 6-7 lie stick.

EDIT - If anyone is familiar with this website/pro stock sticks and knows what might fit me I'd appreciate suggestions. Have not seen a PP12 curve in retail for a couple years.

 

[BruinDust]

Does anyone know an equivalent curve to Sherwood's PP12IG?

I was looking on prostockhockey.com for a pro stock with a 6-7 lie but the curves are so hard to read when looking at pictures and they don't have Sherwood sticks. I'm not even picky about the brand because it's for ball hockey, I'm more just looking for PP12, 6-7 lie stick.

EDIT - If anyone is familiar with this website/pro stock sticks and knows what might fit me I'd appreciate suggestions. Have not seen a PP12 curve in retail for a couple years.

The first page of this thread has a guide to curve equivalents. In your case the 3 listed are:

Bauer - P12
CCM - P17 (Lecavalier)
Easton - E6 (Iginla)

Hockey Stick Man has a stick selector that has some conflicting info, you can look for yourself:

Stick Selector

Good luck!

 

[Joey Moss]

The first page of this thread has a guide to curve equivalents. In your case the 3 listed are:

Bauer - P12
CCM - P17 (Lecavalier)
Easton - E6 (Iginla)

Hockey Stick Man has a stick selector that has some conflicting info, you can look for yourself:

Stick Selector

Good luck!

Great, thankyou!

Didn't even bother to look on first page.

 

[flyingkiwi]

Inline hockey stick

Can someone tell me if this stick is left or right handed?

 

[althoma1]

Right

 

[Dueling Banjos]

Just broke my new Ribcor stick, kinda sucks since it was relatively new. I've always just bought new one after that happened but i am thinking of getting it repaired this time. Should i do it or will it seriously lack something - weird flex, less release power?

 

[DougKnowsBest]

Just broke my new Ribcor stick, kinda sucks since it was relatively new. I've always just bought new one after that happened but i am thinking of getting it repaired this time. Should i do it or will it seriously lack something - weird flex, less release power?

I have a ribcor trigger asy 1 that’s blade is chipping out around the edges. The stick is way nicer then my skill level desearves. The abuse it received in 1 beer league session seems minimal for what it was designed for. I’ve repaired it several times with auto body repair materials such as panel bonder, fiberglass, and other apoxies. It’s been successful for temporary fixes, but as the blade continues to break down in new places it needs redone. Using it in the game and encountering blade on blade contact seems to be the problem.

I ended up buying a trigger asy2 and have been please with it’s durability after 1 session.


My high school son has torn through Bauer vapors. They’ve all broken in the shaft. It’s not possible to repair that and retain any of the functionality.

 

[Dueling Banjos]

I have a ribcor trigger asy 1 that’s blade is chipping out around the edges. The stick is way nicer then my skill level desearves. The abuse it received in 1 beer league session seems minimal for what it was designed for. I’ve repaired it several times with auto body repair materials such as panel bonder, fiberglass, and other apoxies. It’s been successful for temporary fixes, but as the blade continues to break down in new places it needs redone. Using it in the game and encountering blade on blade contact seems to be the problem.

I ended up buying a trigger asy2 and have been please with it’s durability after 1 session.


My high school son has torn through Bauer vapors. They’ve all broken in the shaft. It’s not possible to repair that and retain any of the functionality.

I have Ribcor Pro and it suits me perfectly. I basically broke it in half, few inches above the blade, just where the 'low kick point' supposedly is, so that's why i am concerned about the flex.

Yeah, i had previous Ribcor versions as well and the blade on the new one seems stronger. I always destroyed blade on the old ones, around the tip area but this one just snapped in half.

 

[Dueling Banjos]

So i had to dig out my old Tacks stick and i must say i really enjoyed playing with it last night. It feels sort of 'dead' compared to lively Ribcor but it has much more solid feel to it. Receiving passes and stick battles around the boards, that's where it shines. Nevertheless, i ll be getting new Ribcor before the winter season but will probably go up to 85 flex this time.

 

[Amazinmets73]

I recently switched curves from a PM9 to a P92. I loved the PM9 curve; the issue was the 5 lie was too low. The P92 is good for stickhandling, however it's difficult to keep passes on the ice and backhand due to the deep curve.
I'm a playmaker/defender who's priorities are passing and stickhandling. I also would prefer a 5.5 or 6 lie.
Which curve would suit me best?

 

[Nick1219]

I recently switched curves from a PM9 to a P92. I loved the PM9 curve; the issue was the 5 lie was too low. The P92 is good for stickhandling, however it's difficult to keep passes on the ice and backhand due to the deep curve.
I'm a playmaker/defender who's priorities are passing and stickhandling. I also would prefer a 5.5 or 6 lie.
Which curve would suit me best?

I'd probably lean P88... the curve is far less aggressive and a little more closed. It's a nice subtle bump up from the PM9.

 

[AIREAYE]

I recently switched curves from a PM9 to a P92. I loved the PM9 curve; the issue was the 5 lie was too low. The P92 is good for stickhandling, however it's difficult to keep passes on the ice and backhand due to the deep curve.
I'm a playmaker/defender who's priorities are passing and stickhandling. I also would prefer a 5.5 or 6 lie.
Which curve would suit me best?

Are you aware of the P92 Lie 5 version? See front page of stick guide. Same curve as the P92 but in a lower lie. Other brands have it too but unfortunately, it's hard to find.

The P88 and its equivalents isn't a bad suggestion either as mentioned above.

 

[BruinDust]

I recently switched curves from a PM9 to a P92. I loved the PM9 curve; the issue was the 5 lie was too low. The P92 is good for stickhandling, however it's difficult to keep passes on the ice and backhand due to the deep curve.
I'm a playmaker/defender who's priorities are passing and stickhandling. I also would prefer a 5.5 or 6 lie.
Which curve would suit me best?

If you can find CCM P-38 curve (I believe it's a stock Lie 6), that might be a suitable curve. I have two sticks, a P-19 (similar to a P92) and a P-38. The P-38 is the superior curve between the two for passing and stick-handling.

 

[Smirnov2Chistov]

What do you guys do with your old sticks that you don't really use anymore? I have a old Bauer XXXX lite, TPS R8, and an old One95.

Because I've been playing Dek hockey more and more (and because I'm fairly small) I guess I'm contemplating buying junior shafts? I feel like the senior sticks that I've been playing with just don't translate well into Dek.

 

[Alexander the Gr8]

What do you guys do with your old sticks that you don't really use anymore? I have a old Bauer XXXX lite, TPS R8, and an old One95.

Because I've been playing Dek hockey more and more (and because I'm fairly small) I guess I'm contemplating buying junior shafts? I feel like the senior sticks that I've been playing with just don't translate well into Dek.

I use them for practice or pond hockey until they die. My older sticks don't have any pop left, so I wouldn't use them in a regular season game or a playoff game.

 

[puckpilot]

What do you guys do with your old sticks that you don't really use anymore? I have a old Bauer XXXX lite, TPS R8, and an old One95.

Because I've been playing Dek hockey more and more (and because I'm fairly small) I guess I'm contemplating buying junior shafts? I feel like the senior sticks that I've been playing with just don't translate well into Dek.

I put some shelf brackets, lay some of my old sticks on top, and use it as a shelf in my equipment room. If I need one of the sticks, I can pull it out to use. Otherwise, it's part of a shelf. You never know when you'll need something straight that can hold a tiny bit of a load.

Other sticks, I just have lying around. I take them out for a spin sometimes just to remind myself why I moved away from them.

 

[Amazinmets73]

Right - Aaron Asham Ribcor Trigger ASY 95 Flex Stick
This looks lovely

 

[I Am The Stig]

So I picked up a Trigger 2 to try out that Parise curve. I used both a P28 and P88 and both of them combined sounded like a dream for me.

However, whenever I apply a bit of flex to the stick, I'm hearing a clicking noise in the upper portion of the stick. It's brand new. Should I go for an exchange?

 

[AIREAYE]

If you move the stick around, does it rattle?

 

[Oak]

What curve is more common for defensemen? PM9 or P88?

My son recenty switched to D and has been using a P92 for the past 4 years but his shots seem to be going too high now since he is shooting from farther away.

What do you guys suggest?

 

[puckpilot]

What do you guys suggest?

Honestly, I think you'd get more millage for your money if you spend your money on shooting lessons rather than a new curve/stick to correct something like shooting high. If a player's mechanics are sound, they should be able to adjust for distance and place the puck high or low regardless of curve, especially a curve they've been using for 4 years.

With that said, I'll put on my mind-my-own-bloody-business hat on now, and say if you're set on getting him a new curve, IMHO, the p88 will probably be the better option, because it's more similar to the p92 but without the open toe, so less loft.

The PM9 is a heel curve, meaning the pock where the puck sits is more towards the heel and the toe is still a bit open, not as open as the P92 but still open. Where as with the p88, the pocket is in the same position as the p92 but the toe is more neutral, so not as much loft.

 

[TGWL]

What curve is more common for defensemen? PM9 or P88?

My son recenty switched to D and has been using a P92 for the past 4 years but his shots seem to be going too high now since he is shooting from farther away.

What do you guys suggest?

The PM9 (Savard / Stamkos) is more of a mid-heel than a straight up heel curve pattern. It's harder to cup the puck with your blade, but it's designed to be more flat without the toe being open. This results is lower shots. Great for passing.

p92, In my opinion, the Sakic / whatever you want to call it now, is not a very good blade pattern for defensemen who are shooting further away. The toe is open which results in high shots. Easy to lift pucks in close, but from far away it's harder to control keeping your shot lower / on net.

p88 (Kane) - Very east to use. Easy to shoot and place the puck where you want. Easy to stick handle. Easy to pass. The toe is typically closed or slightly opened, that results in the puck being harder to lift.

 

[Oak]

The PM9 (Savard / Stamkos) is more of a mid-heel than a straight up heel curve pattern. It's harder to cup the puck with your blade, but it's designed to be more flat without the toe being open. This results is lower shots. Great for passing.

p92, In my opinion, the Sakic / whatever you want to call it now, is not a very good blade pattern for defensemen who are shooting further away. The toe is open which results in high shots. Easy to lift pucks in close, but from far away it's harder to control keeping your shot lower / on net.

p88 (Kane) - Very east to use. Easy to shoot and place the puck where you want. Easy to stick handle. Easy to pass. The toe is typically closed or slightly opened, that results in the puck being harder to lift.

Thanks for the info.

I will get him a p88 to mess around with, but I am also considering the ccm p30 curve which is supposedly a p88 with slightly more toe. People seem to be raving about it.